Chiloe is a land of churches. The wooden churches that watch over every village's Plaza de Armas have been designated World Heritage sites by the UN. From UNESCO's description: The Churches of Chiloé represent a unique example in Latin America of an outstanding form of ecclesiastical wooden architecture. They represent a tradition initiated by the Jesuit Peripatetic Mission in the 17th and 18th centuries, continued and enriched by the Franciscans during the 19th century and still prevailing today. These churches embody the intangible richness of the Chiloé Archipelago, and bear witness to a successful fusion of indigenous and European culture, the full integration of its architecture in the landscape and environment, as well as to the spiritual values of the communities. In fact we live just blocks from the church in Nercon. How many folks can say they live near a World Heritage Site?
(aside on the churches of Chiloe) Built 200 years ago, the churches of Chiloe are constructed exclusively of wood. The hand hewn details are most striking. The church in Achao didn't allow photos inside, however you can see the detail even in the entrance doors.
Roberto and I made a trip to Rilan, on the peninsula that we see across the bay from our backyard. The village is literally at the end of the paved road. There is an elementary school and a market selling bread and canned goods and not much else. 
Two hundred years ago however Rilan was a village with a safe harbor for the traveling priest. And so there is a lovely wood church overlooking the center of the village. If you look closely you will note that the pews only extend halfway to the back of the church. There simply aren't that many parishoners anymore. 
The big church in a small village reminded me of the villages I walked through on the Camino de Santiago in Spain. I wonder if the Galician immigrants who came to Chiloe years ago had the same thought. Inside the churches color prevails. European architecture meets Chilote decoration. Collumns and arches are hand cut, carved and painted. 
Chiloe also is the main island in an archipelago of 15 or 20 islands. Fifty years ago it was easier to go from Castro to one of the islands than from Castro to an inland village 20 miles away. Then, fishing meant going out in a row boat or in a sail powered craft to bring in fish. These days most folks who work in the fishing industry take a bus to their job in the plant that makes pellets for the fish farm. Times have changed but the sea is still a presence in people's lives here.
Twice a year, the churches, islands and boats combine for a festival on the island of Caguash. (pronounced like a Bostonian cleaning their auto: cah wash) This year 1,000 people camped overnight and another 5,000 took boats Sunday morning out from Castro and Achao to Caguash
for the festival. The four of us decided that the 4 hour boat ride that left Castro would be fun, but the 6:30 am sailing was too early. We opted to take a bus to Achao (closest to Caguash) and catch an hour and a half boat. Unfortunately when we arrived in Achao, the last boat had left 20 minutes earlier. A group of about 15 of us, tourists from Santiago, 2 elderly nuns, an Argentine family and a French couple stood on the pier waiting for a boat to return. After an hour we decamped to a harbor side play ground.
Two girls and their mother were at the playground. Berto and Gabi made fast friends with the girls and Mike and Lisa chatted with the mom.
Turns out her mother is/was an English teacher and she was apologetic that she did not speak English. No need to apologize to us! Someone to practice Spanish with while the kids practice theirs, as they say down here..Super Bien!
After a while we all got hungry, said good byes and headed to the Plaza de Armas for a picnic lunch. While we were eating the two nuns walked out of the Achao church. Seems even they balked the $30 fee a fisherman was charging to take late comers out to Caguash.
The 2:00 bus got us back home in time afternoon coffee with the family. I'm not sure any of them have ever made it out for the festival in Caguash either. In the end we had a nice Sunday seeing a new part of the island, chatting with people and ending the day with cafecitos and pancitos in Tia Victoria's kitchen. Maybe we are becoming Chilotes after all.
No comments:
Post a Comment